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Almeria

Once Upon a Time in Hollywood

Almeria is the setting for a June 1969 film production and for a small hotel encounter whose consequences reach beyond the Spanish location shoot. Its rock formations could stand in for Arizona in a Western, but the place Cliff Booth and Aldo Ray occupy is not cinematic grandeur: it is a hot, unairconditioned hotel where a box fan, a plastic cup, and a bottle of gin become the immediate facts of the night. Cliff’s decision to supply Ray with alcohol ends Ray’s work on the film and later becomes the basis of a rule Rick Dalton shares with him.

Setting and production

The Almeria episode takes place during the filming of Red Blood, Red Skin, a picture co-starring Telly Savalas and Carroll Baker. The production was the fourth European film Cliff had made in rapid succession with his employer, Rick Dalton. The earlier projects had carried the pair from Italian Westerns to a secret-agent picture in Athens; the Spanish production was the last stop before they returned to Los Angeles. The sequence therefore places Almeria at the end of an extended working trip rather than presenting it as an isolated destination.

Cliff and Rick had spent five months in Europe and had enjoyed much of the experience. In Rome they shared an apartment with a view of the Colosseum. Rick embraced the attention of paparazzi and the life of an American movie star abroad, while Cliff was glad to be stunt-doubling again. That contrast continues in Spain: the film work gives Cliff a role he values, but the immediate conditions are modest and physically uncomfortable. The hotel is close to the Wild West–looking formations that allow Almeria to pass for Arizona, a landscape made useful by the production’s Western setting.

The Hotel Splendido supplies the encounter’s cramped, everyday environment. With no air-conditioning, its guests keep their doors open and rely on loud box fans. Cliff walks across filthy carpet described as having the consistency of Silly Putty, carrying a small plastic ice bucket toward the ice machine. The contrast between the location’s usefulness to a Western film and the shabby hotel’s heat and worn surfaces makes the production setting tangible without turning it into a glamorous travel interlude.

Two rooms on the same night

The chapter places Ray and Cliff in separate rooms in the same hotel, in the same country, on the same night. Ray, a former movie star, is spending his first night on location in a stuffy room, seated on the edge of a bed beside a fan. His clothes cling to his sweat-covered back. The narration sets his present circumstances against earlier markers of success: work with celebrated directors, a once-swank apartment at the El Royale, and a small Porsche ill-suited to his barrel-built frame. Yet those losses are not what occupies his attention. He is thinking about the bottle he wants that night.

Ray’s predicament is not simply a passing wish for a drink. He tells Cliff that he has been given no money, that the hotel has been instructed not to serve him, and that a man is watching the door; he describes himself as being under house arrest. His pleading makes the hotel room feel like both a place of confinement and a scene of immediate dependence. In the same building, Cliff has his own physical problem: a rifle butt has cut the skin above his right eyebrow, and the swelling is severe enough to threaten his ability to work the next day.

Cliff first attends to the injury. He studies his face in the bathroom mirror, touches the swollen brow, and decides he needs ice quickly. He also wants ice for the room-temperature gin in his plastic cup, though he dislikes the taste of gin whether warm or chilled. As he makes his way down the hall, the open doors expose the guests to one another’s view. Passing Ray’s room, Cliff sees the old man sitting beside his fan and staring down at the carpet. The location’s shared discomfort brings the two men into contact before either has planned a conversation.

The encounter and its immediate consequence

On Cliff’s return from the ice machine, Ray looks up and calls to him. After establishing that Cliff is American, he asks whether the stuntman has a drink. Cliff initially has only the gin he brought to his room. Ray’s account of his restrictions and his direct appeal make the request more than casual hospitality: he is asking for help getting the one thing he has been prevented from obtaining.

Cliff goes back to his room, retrieves the bottle, and carries it down the filthy hallway to Room 104. Ray receives it in his large hand and stares at it. The narration briefly narrows to the practical meaning of the exchange: with the bottle, he will be all right for the night. The help is immediate and personal, but it is not harmless. Cliff has given alcohol to a man whose access to it has been deliberately restricted, and the production’s next-day schedule makes the choice consequential.

Before leaving, Cliff remembers that he is still wearing his Rick wig from earlier that day. He removes it, revealing his own blond hair, waves, and wishes Ray a good night. The gesture closes the encounter with an ordinary farewell, while the bottle remains in Ray’s hand. Ray answers the Beefeater figure on the label that he will have a good night. The wig also briefly makes visible Cliff’s work as Dalton’s double: even in the hotel corridor, his appearance has been serving the production.

Aftermath and significance

After drinking the bottle, Ray is unfit for work the following day and is put on the first plane home. The Spanish producers try to discover who supplied him with the alcohol, but they never identify Cliff. Cliff is so nervous about the incident that he does not tell Rick at the time. Almeria thus becomes the setting for a favor that remains concealed even from the person Cliff works for, while producing a direct loss for the film’s cast and crew: Ray cannot continue on the picture.

Cliff eventually tells Rick two years later. Rick reacts by recalling three basic rules associated with receiving a Screen Actors Guild card, the last of which warns against giving Aldo Ray a bottle under any circumstances. The delayed disclosure turns the hotel incident into a professional anecdote with a clear consequence and a memorable rule. In the larger account of their European work, Almeria marks both the end of the trip and a point where Cliff’s loyalty, impulsive generosity, and work as a stuntman intersect with a colleague’s dependency. The landscape may provide an Arizona substitute for the movie, but the chapter’s lasting Almeria scene unfolds indoors, in the heat and exposure of an inexpensive hotel.

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