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Lene’s Summit Ambition

The Climb

This flow follows Lene Gammelgaard’s determination to climb Everest without oxygen, her negotiation with the guides, and her survival in the storm.

increasingupBearing stren­gth in each eventdowndecreasing
Leaving Climbing BehindLeaving Climbing Behind from "The Climb". Leaving Climbing Behind A New Priority Lene Gammelgaard decides she wants a family and intends to leave serious mountaineering behind.
Leaving Climbing Behind A New Priority Lene Gammelgaard decides she wants a family and intends to leave serious mountaineering behind. The Invitation When Scott Fischer asks her to join his Everest expedition, her long-held dream overcomes her resolution almost immediately.
A Personal Everest GoalA Personal Everest Goal from "The Climb". A Personal Everest Goal Fundraising Lene Gammelgaard works long hours to raise money and build the public profile needed to join the expedition.
A Personal Everest Goal Fundraising Lene Gammelgaard works long hours to raise money and build the public profile needed to join the expedition. Independence She wants to be recognized as a climber in her own right, not merely as a client carried by a guide.
The Oxygen DisputeThe Oxygen Dispute from "The Climb". The Oxygen Dispute Clashing Plans Lene Gammelgaard insists she hoped to climb without oxygen, while Scott Fischer says her acclimatization makes that unsafe.
The Oxygen Dispute Clashing Plans Lene Gammelgaard insists she hoped to climb without oxygen, while Scott Fischer says her acclimatization makes that unsafe. Persuasion Anatoli Boukreev explains the risks and offers to help her try another time. She accepts oxygen for the summit attempt.
Summit and Warning SignsSummit and Warning Signs from "The Climb". Summit and Warning Signs Achievement Lene Gammelgaard reaches the summit with the later group, having endured a long ascent and an increasingly late hour.
Summit and Warning Signs Achievement Lene Gammelgaard reaches the summit with the later group, having endured a long ascent and an increasingly late hour. Storm Awareness She notices whiteout conditions developing and understands that the descent is becoming more dangerous than the summit celebration suggests.
Finding CampFinding Camp from "The Climb". Finding Camp Shared Navigation Separated from some teammates, Lene Gammelgaard joins Klev Schoening and helps orient the group during brief breaks in the…
Finding Camp Shared Navigation Separated from some teammates, Lene Gammelgaard joins Klev Schoening and helps orient the group during brief breaks in the storm. Survival and Witness She reaches camp alive, but the ordeal leaves her with a lasting account of how cooperation and sound judgment can persist amid hypoxia.
1995 during the Broad Peak expedition
late 1995 to March 1996
May 1–4, 1996
May 10, 1996, afternoon
night of May 10–11, 1996