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Denver

The Climb

Denver is both a waypoint in the aftermath of the 1996 Everest disaster and a place of memorial and renewed controversy. The narrative connects the city to the journey home of Anatoli Boukreev and Neal Beidleman, to the public remembrance of Boukreev after his death, and to a book-tour episode that brought the dispute over Jon Krakauer’s portrayal of the disaster back into view.

Departure and the journey home

On May 24, after completing their business in Nepal, Boukreev and Beidleman said farewell to the Sherpas, concluded their business with the Ministry of Tourism, and reached the airport. They were beginning a journey toward Denver: the route would take them first to Bangkok and then Los Angeles before the final leg. Beidleman planned to transfer onward to Aspen, while friends were to meet Boukreev in Denver. As they boarded, both men thought the events of May 10 might, for a while, be behind them.

That hoped-for separation proved brief. While the men were settled into their Thai Airlines seats, preparing for the first leg, a flight attendant told Boukreev that friends wanted to see him. The interruption brought journalists with television cameras instead. They questioned him about his condition and the meaning of his Everest experience; after speaking with them for fifteen minutes, he regarded the encounter as insignificant. Denver marks the intended destination, but the episode shows how the disaster followed its survivors beyond the mountain and into the public appetite for its story.

A place of remembrance

In February 1998, mountaineers and friends from around the world gathered in Denver and Boulder for memorial services for Boukreev. Russian and Kazakh friends, including Rinat Khaibullin, remembered a strong and courageous climber whose desire to climb high mountains had endured despite the collapse of Soviet mountaineering. Khaibullin had led a team that tried to find Boukreev after the Annapurna I avalanche in which he died.

The services also joined people from different parts of Boukreev’s life. Scott Fischer’s parents and one of his sisters attended, offering comfort to those still in acute grief. Jack Robbins, an architect from Berkeley, recalled the patient Russian climber who had guided him to the summit of Denali when Robbins was in his sixties. Mountain Madness expedition members, including Sandy Hill Pittman, whose life Boukreev had saved on Everest, toasted him. Denver thus becomes more than a location for a ceremony: the gathering brings together professional colleagues, friends, clients, and the family of a fellow climber lost in the same Everest disaster.

The memorials carried an expectation that the controversy surrounding the 1996 disaster would subside and that more decorous, objective consideration would follow. That hope was tied to the American Alpine Club’s evaluation and recognition of Boukreev’s actions, which his friends believed might temper Krakauer’s accusations. The expectation is part of the account of the memorials’ aftermath, not a resolution of the dispute.

The book tour and the dispute

In November 1997, after The Climb was published, Boukreev and G. Weston DeWalt began a book tour arranged by St. Martin’s Press. Its demanding schedule left little room for training: days commonly started at six in the morning and ended at midnight, though Boukreev undertook the work with little complaint. On Sunday evening, November 9, the two arrived in Denver, road-weary and hungry, and found a fax at their hotel with a news clipping sent by a friend in New York.

The clipping reviewed the television adaptation of Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, which was being broadcast that evening. DeWalt reminded Boukreev of the program, and Boukreev asked him to read a paragraph aloud. The review quoted the film’s director as saying that every scene came from Krakauer’s book and that Krakauer had helped the filmmakers reconstruct how the climbers felt and what happened without oxygen. The moment made the disagreement concrete: the claims in the book were not confined to a literary account but were being carried into a television adaptation presented as actual.

Denver’s several appearances trace distinct stages in the aftermath: a hoped-for return from Nepal, a collective act of mourning, and a renewed encounter with the public representation of Everest. The city does not settle the competing accounts. Instead, it gathers the survivors’ return, the community’s remembrance, and the continuing argument over how the disaster should be told into one recurring setting.