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Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa waiting near the summit for Hall and Hansen

The Climb

Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa’s wait near the summit for Rob Hall and Doug Hansen was a consequential act of care during the 1996 Everest summit push: after reaching the top, he stayed behind in freezing conditions to make sure Hall and Hansen, who were still climbing, could use the rope he had fixed and return securely. That decision delayed his descent and separated him from Scott Fischer as Fischer’s condition worsened.

Summit and Waiting

Lopsang summited at about 2:30 p.m. and remained on the summit until approximately 3:40, when Fischer finally arrived. About fifteen minutes later, Fischer began descending, followed by Lopsang. The sequence placed Lopsang behind his expedition leader on the descent, but his attention soon turned to Hall and Hansen.

Just below the summit, Lopsang stopped to retrieve his ice axe. During the ascent, he had anchored it in the snow to fix a length of rope for climbers coming up behind him. From there, he noticed that Hall, who had summited at around 2:30, had come back down from the summit and was helping his exhausted client, Hansen, ascend on that rope.

The Delay and Its Consequence

Lopsang wanted to make sure Hall and Hansen would be secure on their descent, so he waited beside the ice axe while they climbed to the summit and returned. In subzero temperatures, the wait lasted until sometime between 4:15 and 4:30 p.m. It was not simply a pause in Lopsang’s own descent: by remaining at the rope, he stayed in a position to watch over the two climbers’ progress.

Only after Hall and Hansen had made the summit and turned back did Lopsang continue down. He did not catch up with Fischer until approximately 5:45 p.m.; by then Fischer was in serious trouble. The chronology makes the cost of Lopsang’s decision clear without diminishing its immediate purpose: he prioritized the safety of two climbers whose ascent had extended late into the day, and the delay left him separated from Fischer during a critical stage of the descent.

Place in the Everest Tragedy

Hall’s decision to allow Hansen to continue climbing despite his exhaustion is described as a perplexing breach of Hall’s well-known practice of following established rules. The account does not claim that Lopsang’s wait alone determined what followed, but it identifies the decision to take Hansen toward the summit as a direct influence on the choices of Lopsang and Hall’s guide Andy Harris, drawing their attention away from other problems developing on the mountain.

Lopsang’s wait thus connects a specific act of responsibility to the wider chain of pressures on summit day. The fixed rope and ice axe that enabled the ascent also became the point beside which he stayed, exposed to the cold while Hall and Hansen went up and back down. By the time he resumed his descent and reached Fischer, the separation created by that vigil had become consequential.