Salon
The ClimbSalon was an online magazine that became a conspicuous forum for the renewed dispute over the 1996 Everest disaster and the public portrayal of Anatoli Boukreev. Dwight Garner’s feature “Coming Down” examined questions raised by earlier reporting, and an ensuing exchange between Jon Krakauer and G. Weston DeWalt reopened arguments over what had happened, what had been omitted, and how a climber’s reputation could be shaped by a story repeated across media.
A Forum for Reopening the Dispute
The immediate backdrop was the debate over Jon Krakauer’s account of the disaster. In 1998, Steve Weinberg argued that readers of Into Thin Air should consider the stakes of a contested portrayal: if Krakauer’s account of Boukreev’s conduct was wrong, the error would do more than misstate facts; it could damage a person’s reputation. Dwight Garner, a senior editor at Salon, responded to the importance of that question with “Coming Down,” a feature presented as an account of what had happened on Everest on the fatal day. The book describes Garner’s article as reasonably objective and credits it with useful insight into the dispute’s central issues.
The feature’s role was not simply to publish another settled version of events. It placed competing accounts before readers and examined discrepancies that mattered to the way responsibility was understood. Among them was the difference between Krakauer’s account of meeting Beck Weathers during the descent and Weathers’s recorded recollection: Krakauer described urging Weathers to descend with him and offering to guide him, whereas Weathers recalled Krakauer responding that he was not a guide. Garner’s comparison made Salon a venue for testing how narrative detail, attributed speech, and a climber’s own testimony could diverge.
Letters and Competing Explanations
After Garner’s article appeared, Krakauer and G. Weston DeWalt exchanged letters on Salon’s website. DeWalt believed the exchange had explored the issues exhaustively and expected the controversy to quiet. Instead, the correspondence became another stage in the dispute, carrying it from the interpretation of events on the mountain to arguments about reporting practices, omitted evidence, and the credibility of the people recounting the disaster.
One recurring question was whether Krakauer had adequately acknowledged Boukreev’s explanation for descending ahead of clients: that Scott Fischer had approved the plan so Boukreev could be positioned to assist climbers on their return. In a public response to Boukreev’s letter, Krakauer continued to criticize him and, as DeWalt recounts the exchange, did not address the complaint that this authorization had been left out of Krakauer’s article. Boukreev was puzzled by the response, particularly because his account of Fischer’s approval had been available in interview material. Salon thus carried not only a disagreement over conduct but a disagreement over what evidence a published account had disclosed.
The letters also revisited DeWalt’s decision not to interview Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa. Krakauer called the omission baffling and suggested that its explanation could only be guessed at. DeWalt answered that he had planned to interview Lopsang in Nepal in the winter of 1997, but Lopsang had died in an avalanche before the interview could take place. Krakauer then acknowledged that the death had precluded the opportunity. In this exchange, an accusation about a reporter’s omission was met with a specific chronology that changed the meaning of the omission: the interview had not been abandoned as a matter of choice after the plan was made; the intended source was no longer alive to speak.
Evidence, Editorial Framing, and Reputation
The Salon exchange formed part of a larger dispute over how claims were checked and repeated. DeWalt argued that Krakauer’s criticism of Boukreev’s clothing on summit day was contradicted by photographs delivered to Outside before publication, which showed Boukreev adequately dressed. The argument illustrates the conflict’s recurring structure: a statement about the climber’s conduct was challenged not only as interpretation but against a concrete visual record and a claim about what editors had received before publication.
DeWalt also used Salon to resist the idea that the controversy could be compressed into a brief, conclusive response. In a letter to Outside, he said that Boukreev’s answer to Krakauer’s allegations was not reducible to sound bites. That insistence matched the function of the online exchange: it gave competing explanations room to accumulate, while making visible the difficulty of deciding among them through snippets, repeated accusations, or a single authoritative account.
For DeWalt, the stakes extended beyond the immediate correspondence. He argued that Krakauer had been the principal source for the Everest story for roughly a year and a half, and that media repetition had helped turn Krakauer’s version into public reality. Salon’s publication of Garner’s article and the letters offered a counter-space in which that authority could be questioned. It did not itself establish a final verdict; rather, it exposed how the circulation of accounts could make a contested portrait appear settled, and how subsequent reporting could reopen the question of whose account had been heard, checked, or left out.
Limits and Afterlife of the Platform
The exchange did not end the controversy. DeWalt initially thought its conclusion might leave the issues for others to sort out, but later publications returned to them. In November 1998, the illustrated edition of Into Thin Air included a postscript that acknowledged Boukreev had saved Sandy Hill Pittman and Charlotte Fox, while remaining critical of his performance as a guide. DeWalt considered the postscript disingenuous and objected that it did not mention the American Alpine Club’s recognition of Boukreev’s actions. This later disagreement shows the limits of Salon’s intervention: the letters made disputed evidence and editorial choices more visible, but did not prevent the dispute from continuing through books, reviews, and later commentary.
Salon’s significance in this episode lies in its function as a public venue for scrutiny rather than as an arbiter. Garner’s feature juxtaposed accounts, and the letters made the conditions of reporting—interviews planned or missed, evidence available before publication, and explanations included or excluded—part of the story. The platform allowed a dispute over a high-altitude rescue to become a dispute over narrative authority: not only what happened on Everest, but how a version of what happened acquired the force of public memory.