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Kootenai River

Train Dreams

The Kootenai River is one of the central geographical presences in Robert Grainier’s world, more than a background waterway. It marks the towns and forests through which he moves, enables transportation and industrial work, and repeatedly becomes the site where human lives are displaced, endangered, or remembered. Grainier’s changing relation to the river—from childhood observation to adult labor, mourning, and recollection—turns it into a measure of both regional history and personal loss.

Setting and Early Memory

The Kootenai River flows past Fry, Idaho, the town where Grainier arrived as a small child after traveling by train with his destination pinned to his chest. His earliest memory is not of family intimacy but of standing beside his uncle, whom he soon called Father, and watching the mass deportation of more than a hundred Chinese families. At the Bonner Lumber Company railroad yard, armed men with axes, pistols, and shotguns supervised the families as they climbed onto three flatcars. The adults herded their children toward the middle of the open cars, while the train carried them away along the river corridor.

The river therefore enters Grainier’s consciousness alongside organized racial exclusion and the machinery of transportation. Decades later, when he nearly helped kill a Chinese railroad laborer, that childhood scene returned to him. Many of the expelled families eventually settled about thirty miles west, in Montana between Troy and Libby, in a place called China Basin beside the Kootenai River. By the time Grainier worked on bridges, that community had dispersed, and the former fear surrounding its residents had largely vanished, but the river retained the memory of the population movement that had shaped his earliest understanding of the region.

The river also appears in one of Grainier’s earliest memories of natural disaster. During a flood, the Kootenai rose over its banks and inundated the lower part of Fry. Frail structures were washed away and broken apart downstream, and the post office was undermined and carried off. Grainier remembered being lifted—perhaps by his father—above a crowd of townspeople to watch the building float away. Canadians later found it stranded on lowlands a hundred miles downstream in British Columbia. The river’s power here is both local and continental: it destroys a familiar civic landmark in Fry and carries it into another country.

Railways, Bridges, and Industrial Movement

The Kootenai River belongs to a landscape increasingly reorganized by railways and bridge construction. During the 1917 attempt on the life of a Chinese laborer accused of stealing from the Spokane International Railway’s company stores, Grainier and other railroad workers dragged the prisoner up the bank toward a bridge being built fifty feet above the Moyea River. The violence was driven toward the trestle, where the workers tried to throw him into the gorge. Although the bridge itself crossed the Moyea rather than the Kootenai, the scene belongs to the same riverine infrastructure: waterways become obstacles to be spanned, and the structures built to conquer them can also become platforms for racialized violence.

Forty-one days after the attempted killing, the first locomotive crossed the completed Eleven-Mile Cutoff Bridge over a 112-foot gap above a gorge sixty feet deep. Mr. Sears raised his revolver to signal the crossing, and the engine proceeded slowly across the tracks while the workers shouted and cheered. Grainier joined the celebration, though he felt inexplicably sad. The bridge eliminated a long curve around the gorge and saved the Spokane International Railway the cost of maintaining eleven miles of rails and ties. The river country is thus measured in both emotional disturbance and corporate efficiency: what feels ominous to Grainier is celebrated as a saving of distance and expense.

The project awakens Grainier’s appetite for other massive works. In 1920 he travels to northwestern Washington to repair the Robinson Gorge Bridge, a structure spanning a gorge 208 feet deep and 804 feet wide. The railway carried an engine and two flatcars of logs, though the bridge was so old, wobbly, and frightening that no one rode the cars across; even the engineer abandoned the engine and let the brakeman catch it at the far end. Afterward Grainier works for the Simpson Company, where timber is hauled through a system of corduroy roads and six-horse teams to railway landings. A wood-burning Steam donkey drags logs by cable toward the cars, which then cross the empty depth of Robinson Gorge and descend toward the continental railway network. The Kootenai River is part of this larger geography in which rivers, gorges, rails, and forests are converted into linked channels of labor and extraction.

Flood, Fire, and the River Corridor

The river’s capacity to carry destruction becomes even more severe during the 1920 Moyea Valley fire. Grainier searches the refugees sheltering in town for Gladys Grainier and Kate Grainier, but no one has news of them. He later walks twenty miles along the Moyea River Road toward his homesite, using a wet handkerchief over his mouth and nose while passing through ash. The fire has begun on the river’s east side near Meadow Creek, crossed the river through a narrow gorge by means of enormous spruce trees falling across it in flames, and consumed the valley.

Although the fire does not burn the Kootenai River itself, the river system determines how the catastrophe is experienced and remembered. Grainier encounters a landscape where the ordinary signs of life have disappeared: Meadow Creek is deserted, the forest has become a field of charred spears, and the remains of a cookstove rise from the ashes where a cabin once stood. Ten days later, he rides the Spokane International through Creston and back across the valley. The train moves noisily through the blackened country, but the burned world seems too still to answer it. The waterways and railways that once connected settlements now carry Grainier through the silence of their destruction.

The Kootenai also structures Grainier’s seasonal survival after the fire. He spends winters in Bonners Ferry and works for twenty cents an hour cutting firewood for a contractor supplying the Great Northern Railway. During an exceptionally cold winter, the river freezes hard enough for a herd of two hundred cattle to cross it. From the lot where birch and larch are delivered for sawing and splitting, Grainier watches the animals move onto the blank white surface, churn up a snowy fog, and disappear into it until even the sun and sky are hidden. The frozen river temporarily becomes a road, demonstrating how the same waterway can alternately obstruct travel, carry flood debris, and support the movement of livestock and labor.

Memory, Death, and Moral Association

As Grainier later works as a freighter, journeys beside the Kootenai River repeatedly call to mind William Coswell Haley, the dying boomer whom he had failed to help. The regret does not diminish with time; it becomes sharper. The river’s banks function as a mnemonic route along which an old moral failure is replayed. Grainier also thinks of the Chinese railroad laborer he had nearly helped to kill. The two memories converge beside the river, linking an individual omission with collective violence.

Grainier develops the superstitious conviction that the Chinese laborer took revenge by calling down a curse that destroyed Gladys Grainier and Kate Grainier in the fire. He believes the punishment was excessive, but the belief gives the river country an ethically charged structure: water, tracks, bridges, and roads are no longer neutral features of a working landscape, because each recalls the people Grainier failed to save or helped endanger. The river becomes a channel through which guilt travels across decades.

The Kootenai River is also connected directly to the death of Kootenai Bob. During Prohibition, visiting ranch hands from British Columbia persuade him to drink shandy, claiming that lemonade will cancel the beer’s effects. Grainier finds him outside the hotel in Meadow Creek, drunk for the first time in his life and lapping beer from an eight-quart canning pan. After drinking throughout the afternoon, Kootenai Bob wanders up the tracks and lies unconscious across the ties. A succession of four or five trains runs over him, scattering his remains for a quarter mile along the right-of-way. Over the following days, members of his people search beside the rails and collect pieces of flesh, bone, and clothing in brightly painted leather pouches, presumably to bury them in a fitting ceremony.

The death joins the river’s recurring functions as route, boundary, and grave. The railway beside the river promises connection and economic movement, yet it also transforms a human body into fragments along the right-of-way. The careful collection of those fragments counters the impersonal force of the trains: industrial infrastructure disperses the dead, while communal ritual attempts to restore identity and dignity.

A Contested Social Landscape

The Kootenai River is inhabited by more than the white railroad and logging communities that attempt to control its corridors. Grainier encounters Kootenai people in settings shaped by both commerce and stereotype. At a fairground in Bonners Ferry, two Kootenai women display wolfish pups in a feed sack and a bobcat in a willow cage. The scene places Indigenous people, animals, and spectators within a rough public economy of curiosity, while the phrase “dog-of-wolf” marks the animal as something resistant to ordinary social classification.

Eddie Sauer’s association with a Kootenai woman further complicates Grainier’s solitary life beside the river country. She wears conspicuous clothing, dark blue-tinted hexagonal glasses, and red-painted lips, and she never speaks to the others, though she mutters, sighs, grunts, and softly whistles when Eddie talks. Grainier judges her through the racialized standards of his community, imagining that a white woman with the same behavior would be considered mad. His observation reveals that the river landscape is not simply a natural space but a social one, where different groups are made visible through uneven and often prejudicial descriptions.

Narrative Significance

Across the story, the Kootenai River gathers together the region’s central contradictions. It is a source of floods and a frozen crossing, a boundary between places and a corridor joining them, a setting for settlement and removal, and a route for trains that carry both industrial progress and death. Bridges span rivers in the name of efficiency, yet the bridge-building world also produces the attempted execution of a Chinese laborer. Railways connect forests to the wider continent, yet trains kill Kootenai Bob and scatter his body.

For Grainier, the river’s importance is ultimately psychological as well as geographical. It is where childhood memory begins, where the dislocation of Chinese families first enters his experience, where natural forces destroy the built world, and where later travel revives his remorse. The Kootenai River does not offer resolution. It keeps carrying events downstream—people, buildings, logs, memories, and remains—while Grainier continues along its banks, repeatedly discovering that the landscape remembers what he would rather escape.