Amami
Memoirs of a GeishaAmami is the island destination of a company-arranged excursion that turns a seemingly ordinary trip into the setting for a decisive rupture in Sayuri’s relationships. Its lush landscape and a village theater first encountered as a local curiosity acquire a darker narrative charge when Sayuri imagines using the theater to make Nobu witness her with the Minister; at the moment of exposure, however, the man at the door is the Chairman.
The island journey
The trip begins with uncertainty about where Mother intends to send Sayuri. The mistress of the Ichiriki has received a call from Iwamura Electric: Sayuri is to travel the following weekend to Amami with Mameha, Pumpkin, and another geisha whose name Mother cannot recall. Sayuri objects that the boat journey alone would take all day. Mother replies that Iwamura Electric has arranged an airplane, a prospect that immediately replaces Sayuri’s worries about Nobu with fear of flying.
The arrangement depends on an unusual return journey. The airplane normally carries American officers from Okinawa to Osaka and would otherwise fly back empty several days later; Iwamura Electric has secured seats on those return trips for the geishas. Amami is therefore not the result of a special flight laid on for their party. It is the destination made possible by available transport, and the group travels there because the aircraft would be returning anyway.
On Friday morning, Sayuri, Mameha, Pumpkin, and the elderly geisha Shizue leave by train for Osaka, accompanied as far as the airport by Mr. Bekku, who helps with their trunks. Shizue belongs to the Pontocho district rather than Gion. She keeps apart from the others, looks out the train window, and occasionally takes candy from her orange-and-red handbag while regarding her companions with disdain. From Osaka Station, the party rides to the airport in a small, dirty bus powered by coal. The silver airplane’s two large propellers and tiny tail wheel do little to reassure Sayuri; inside, the sharply sloping aisle makes her think the plane is broken.
The Chairman and Nobu are already aboard, seated toward the rear with the Minister and two men associated with the Mitsubishi Bank: its regional director and the director’s son. The trip thus brings Sayuri into close company with the men whose relationships and judgments shape the dilemma unfolding in Amami. The novel’s account of the island journey is not simply travel description: the shared plane and excursion gather the prospective witnesses together before Sayuri has settled on what she will do.
Inn, forest, and coast
The party reaches its inn about an hour before sunset. Its large Japanese-style room, with tatami mats and gleaming wood, opens onto tropical vegetation through a wall of glass doors. A covered walkway leads through the leaves to a stream. The setting’s beauty provides a sharp contrast to Sayuri’s agitation: while the others admire the room, she can only pretend to share their pleasure.
The inn’s hot-springs pool brings the men and women together in the water after their separate, screened entrances and washing areas. The regional bank director makes jokes directed at Mameha and Sayuri, asking them to retrieve things from the woods as a pretext for seeing them naked. Meanwhile, his son talks with Pumpkin. The episode establishes that the trip’s social ease is not universal: the women’s company and bodies are treated as material for men’s amusement, even as the group moves through an apparently leisurely retreat.
The following morning, the party walks through tropical forest to sea cliffs, where the stream from the inn falls over a small waterfall into the ocean. The Chairman is reluctant to leave the view. On the return walk, Sayuri walks beside Nobu, who seems as cheerful as she has ever seen him. The group then tours the island in a military truck with bench seats, passing banana and pineapple trees and beautiful birds. From the mountaintops, the sea appears turquoise, crossed by dark-blue patches. These excursions give Amami a distinct physical setting, but they also sharpen the contrast between the island’s open natural vistas and the confined, exposed space in which Sayuri later plans her deception.
The village theater and Sayuri’s plan
During an afternoon walk through a village of dirt streets, the group comes upon an old wooden building with a thatched, sloping roof. It resembles a warehouse. Nobu climbs stone steps at the back and opens a door onto a dusty stage made of planks, revealing that the building once served as a warehouse and now functions as the town’s theater. At first Sayuri thinks little of it. Only after the door shuts and the group returns to the street does the place acquire its importance in her mind.
Sayuri imagines herself lying on the theater’s rough floor with the Minister as the door opens and sunlight falls on them. There would be nowhere to hide; Nobu could not fail to see them. The theater seems to answer the practical problem she has been turning over during the flight: how to make Nobu believe that she has betrayed his trust and thereby sever their bond. She has not arrived with a settled plan. Rather, the physical discovery of the stage gives a location and a possible sequence to a scheme she has been struggling to construct.
As the party walks uphill toward the inn, Sayuri falls behind to take a handkerchief from her sleeve. Nobu comes back to ask whether she is all right, while she struggles to answer. Her distress remains concealed beneath a plausible explanation—the heat and exertion of the walk. Amami’s theater offers the opposite condition: a scene in which concealment is impossible and the intended witness is supposed to see exactly what Sayuri wants him to see.
The mistaken witness
The theater plan reaches its crisis when Sayuri is alone with the Minister and hears someone on the stone steps. Remembering Nobu, she feels her heart pound. The Minister appears not to understand what is about to happen. The door opens, and sunlight floods the room. Sayuri recognizes Pumpkin among the two figures, but the man beside her is not Nobu: it is the Chairman. Pumpkin has brought him instead.
The reversal makes the theater’s defining feature—its visibility—work against Sayuri. She had selected the place because Nobu could not fail to witness the encounter, but the intended witness is absent and the Chairman sees the scene instead. Sayuri’s memory of what follows is uncertain: she knows the Minister climbed off her, or perhaps that she pushed him away, and she weeps while asking whether he saw what she saw. With the sun behind the Chairman, she cannot read his expression; after the door closes, she wonders whether she has imagined shock on his face by projecting her own pain onto him.
Amami therefore matters less as a destination in its own right than as the meeting point of landscape, coincidence, and a deliberately staged exposure. A return-flight arrangement brings the group to the island; an afternoon walk leads them to the theater; the theater gives Sayuri a means to act on her plan; and Pumpkin’s unexpected choice changes who witnesses it. The island excursion ends not with the resolution Sayuri intended but with uncertainty about what the Chairman saw and what that sight will mean.