Mizuki Chaya
Memoirs of a GeishaMizuki Teahouse is an exclusive establishment in Gion where men go to be entertained by geisha. Seen for the first time through the eyes of the young Chiyo, it is at once a place of extraordinary refinement and the setting for a private revelation: while trying to locate her sister, she glimpses Hatsumomo at a party and is overwhelmed by the thought of Mr. Tanaka, whose apparent kindness had brought both sisters into danger.
Setting and Appearance
Chiyo approaches the teahouse on a rainy evening, carrying Hatsumomo’s disassembled shamisen in its lacquer case. Its entrance gives her pause: beyond a small hanging curtain, orange walls trimmed in dark wood, a polished-stone path, and a large vase holding twisted maple branches with brilliant red leaves make an impression of carefully arranged splendor. The granite-floored entryway is so beautiful that Chiyo realizes the scene she has just crossed was only the approach to it. She later understands that this is one of Japan’s most exclusive teahouses.
The threshold also establishes a hierarchy Chiyo has learned to read during her months in Gion. A young maid in a dark-blue kimono meets her at the entrance. Though more elegant than anything Chiyo had seen in Yoroido, the maid’s simple clothing and hairstyle mark her as neither a geisha nor the mistress of the establishment. Chiyo recognizes the distinction immediately, even as she feels the maid’s contemptuous gaze.
A Shamisen Errand and a Search
Chiyo reaches the teahouse because Hatsumomo has lost a bet and must perform a song on the shamisen. Rather than use the instrument offered by the teahouse, Hatsumomo insists on her own, though she has not played in years. Yoko, who is responsible for carrying Hatsumomo’s instrument, gives it to Chiyo and explains where to take it. Unaware that Chiyo is confined to the okiya, Yoko leaves her an unexpected opportunity to slip out.
Chiyo’s errand has a second purpose. She hopes the trip will help her find her sister, and she hurries through Gion in the rain with the shamisen, conscious that passersby may mistake her for a child who has stolen it. At the teahouse, she is directed toward Miyagawa-cho, but waits under the eaves for the rain to stop. From there, she discovers a view through the fence into a garden and a brightly lit room.
The View Through the Fence
Through the glass, Chiyo sees men and geisha gathered around a table strewn with sake cups and beer glasses. Hatsumomo is among them, amused by something other than the story being told by a bleary-eyed old man. She keeps glancing toward another geisha, whose back is turned to Chiyo. The view is partial and mediated by the fence: Chiyo is outside the gathering, observing a world whose customs and ranks she is only beginning to understand.
That separation turns the scene inward. Looking into the teahouse recalls an earlier occasion when Chiyo had peered inside one with Mr. Tanaka’s daughter, Kuniko. The memory brings back the heaviness she had felt at the graves of her father’s first family, and her thoughts return to Mr. Tanaka with growing force. She sits on the stone step, with the door against her back, and cries.
Narrative Significance
The teahouse joins Gion’s polished public world to Chiyo’s unsettled private history. Its elegant entrance contrasts with her nervous, illicit passage into the district, while the view of the party places her outside the social life she hopes to enter. The errand meant to bring her closer to Hatsumomo’s world instead becomes a turning point in how she understands her own past.
At the end of the scene, Chiyo judges Mr. Tanaka’s actions anew: she believes he took her from her parents and sold her and her sister into forms of bondage. She resolves never to return to Yoroido—or, if she does, to return only to confront him. Mizuki Teahouse thus matters not only as an elite venue, but as the place where an attempted search for her sister gives way to a painful recognition of betrayal.