Cape George
BarkskinsCape George is a coastal destination in the novel where a search for Sapatisia Sel becomes a search for Mi’kmaw knowledge and its continuing uses. The route to her home runs past a lighthouse, through fog and rain, and along cliffs where she has been seen gathering plants; at its end, her red pickup and a pair of large tents mark a place that is inhabited, not merely scenic. The setting brings together tourism, local kinship, medicinal plants, and the cousins’ effort to learn from Sapatisia.
Setting and approach
Jeanne’s interest in Cape George begins with a profile of Sapatisia in a power company newsletter. The article says that Sapatisia lives there, and Jeanne wants to learn why the old Mi’kmaw medicinal plants can no longer be used and whether Sapatisia knows how to help the forest. Felix points out the practical obstacle: they have no car. When Alice falls ill, Jeanne stays home to care for the child and cook, while Alice’s friends bring Mi’kmaw medicines. Jeanne sees those medicines being used and hears their names, an experience that strengthens her interest in reaching Sapatisia rather than treating the plants as an abstract subject.
The first attempt depends on Mr. Stick, who is heading to the Cape to repair a lighthouse handrail. His pickup carries the maple rail sections, and he offers the cousins a ride, a place to sleep, and dinner if they help with the work. Jeanne and Felix explain that they are looking for Sapatisia but do not know where she lives. Mr. Stick recognizes the name as Egga Sel’s daughter and says he knows the family from long ago. His knowledge of the Cape is practical and partial: tourists sustain local businesses, he says, but Sapatisia’s precise whereabouts are uncertain.
Lighthouse, cliffs, and local knowledge
At the lighthouse, Mr. Stick recalls seeing a woman walking along the cliffs with a basket. He had first taken her for a berry picker, though it was not the season, and had seen her more than once while measuring for the handrail. He has never spoken with her. His account supplies the cousins with a possible clue, not a confirmed identification: the woman may be Sapatisia, and plants may grow along the cliff path, but neither point is established at that stage.
Fog frustrates the search. Mr. Stick drives the cousins through it, and the weather obscures the landscape they hoped to use to find Sapatisia. Feeling responsible for the failed attempt, he later consults Lobert Sel, whose memory is failing but who appears to know where Sapatisia’s small house stands. Lobert marks an inlet he calls Pussle Cove on a smudged piece of paper and places it a couple of kilometres east of the lighthouse, with no road sign. Alice passes the note to Jeanne. Since she has no driver’s licence, Jeanne uses savings from the East Coast Credit Union to give Felix money to rent a car. The second approach is therefore made possible by local family knowledge, shared through an uncertain but useful map.
The house and its surroundings
The cousins return by rental car in wet weather, passing the lighthouse on the way. At Sapatisia’s house they find her red pickup, a rust-blotched sedan, and a mud-covered jeep. Two large tents stand at the sheltered side of the house; one bears a sign marked MEN, and Jeanne guesses that the other is for women, asking whether the tents are toilets. Felix corrects her and points toward the outhouse on the cliff. The exchange establishes the tents as sleeping places and shows Jeanne still learning how to read a setting whose arrangements are not organized for a visitor’s assumptions.
The northern harrier perched nearby adds a nonhuman presence to the scene, while the cliff, the outhouse, and the tents give the house a distinctive relation to its surroundings. Cape George is not simply a backdrop to the reunion the cousins seek: its roads, fog, shoreline, and dispersed dwellings shape what can be found and how. The landscape first hides Sapatisia, then becomes legible through the recollections of people connected to the place.
Significance
Cape George links the family search for Sapatisia with a wider inquiry into the survival and use of Mi’kmaw knowledge. Jeanne’s initial question concerns medicines and forest care; Alice’s illness makes the medicines present in daily life, and the journey gives that interest a concrete destination. The search also depends on relationships and forms of knowledge that are modest in scale: Mr. Stick’s repeated sightings, his acquaintance with Egga Sel, and Lobert’s marked inlet collectively guide the cousins where formal directions do not.
The setting’s tourist economy appears in Mr. Stick’s description of the Cape, where visitors sustain businesses, while the lighthouse itself serves tourists despite no longer guiding sailors. Against that managed visitor landscape, the cliff path and the reported basket-bearing woman point toward another relation to place, grounded in gathering and knowledge of plants. The novel thus makes Cape George a meeting point between tourism and local life, and between the cousins’ curiosity and the knowledge they must seek from Sapatisia rather than presume to possess.