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Gateway of India

Shantaram

The Gateway of India is a fixed landmark in two sharply contrasting views of Bombay: first, as the point from which the narrator and Prabaker approach a crowded hotel street alive with commerce, and later, as the destination toward which a beggar wheels himself through a quiet nighttime road. Its presence ties the city’s busy public life to a more intimate episode involving Karla and the narrator.

Setting and Approach

Prabaker takes the narrator to a hotel along a wide, tree-lined avenue that follows the curve of the bay from the Gateway of India’s tall stone arch. The avenue gives way to a street packed with people and vehicles, where shops, restaurants, and hotels stand side by side. Small stalls jut from storefronts onto the footpath, while attendants sit on folding stools beside them. The Gateway of India thus appears at the edge of a dense commercial district, marking the route into a city whose movement and noise quickly overtake the relative openness of the bay road.

The surrounding street brings together Africans, Arabs, Europeans, and Indians; languages, music, and restaurant scents change from one step to the next. Handcarts and bullock wagons thread through traffic carrying goods ranging from watermelons and rice to clothes, cigarettes, and ice. Prabaker identifies the area as a centre of black-market currency trading, where thick bundles of banknotes change hands in public. Beggars, performers, fortune-tellers, pimps, and pushers share the same streetscape, alongside heaps of rubbish and rats feeding on the pavement. The landmark’s setting is therefore not a detached monument view but an entry into a city marked by commerce, crowds, and stark urban disorder.

A Nighttime Scene

In a later episode, Karla and the narrator encounter a beggar on a small wooden platform fitted with metal ball-bearing wheels. He propels himself into the road with his hands, then stops with a pirouette. His large, heavily padded hands stand out to the narrator, while his oversized school uniform makes the man in his twenties appear out of place in the streetlight. Karla greets him by name, and the two speak in Hindi.

Before leaving, the beggar wishes them good night in English and raises one hand first to his forehead and then to his heart in a courteous gesture. With another pirouette, he rolls down the gentle slope toward the Gateway Monument at Mumbai. The route makes the monument a visible destination in the scene: the beggar’s flourish carries him away from the pair and toward the waterfront landmark.

Narrative Significance

The two appearances establish contrasting rhythms around the same landmark. In the first, the road from the arch leads into a street crowded with traffic, voices, goods, and informal trade; in the later scene, the road is deserted enough for the beggar’s movement to hold the attention of Karla and the narrator. The Gateway of India functions as a geographical point of orientation rather than the focus of an independent episode, linking the city’s public bustle with a personal encounter.

After watching the beggar disappear, Karla leads the narrator along the footpath. He walks her home and then returns alone to his hotel, singing quietly. The scene’s movement from the beggar’s departure toward the monument to the pair’s walk through the night places the landmark at the edge of the narrator’s growing involvement with Karla and with Bombay itself.